Mod 2 T build

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Mod 2 T build

Post  ripcard on Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:43 pm

A little while ago I contacted Jed about building a slightly smaller version of his Dynamic 2 T towers. He drew up a box design and modeled the response.



Jed's comments after testing: "FR in room with a large gate, so reflections take part below 300hz. The small dip at 200hz is a room side wall reflection, and will not really be there in most situations etc. But still, it is amazingly flat from 200hz up to 20k!"

Here are my Sketchup drawings of what it should look like when done.






I decided to go ahead and attempt the build. I went out and bought the MDF and began cutting out the pieces.





The kit arrived after a slight customs delay (I'm in Ontario, Canada) and I started figuring out a plan for the build. At this point work really started to get in the way of progress but an hour or two here and there allowed me to crawl forward. Looks like things are slowing down a little at work so maybe I can put in some serious time in the next couple of weeks.








Jed includes everything you'll need minus wood, glue and finish. Even the silver solder is included. Everything was well packaged and arrived safely. Because the 2 T does not have openings for drivers all the way to the bottom of the cabinet like the 4 T, I had to think about how I was going to glue up the cabinets and still have access to install the damping materials and crossover boards. I decided to leave one side unglued for now and use a hatch of some kind on the lower back of the speaker which I would mount the binding posts on and be large enough to remove the xover if need be. I will install the rear port in the next section up from the bottom.

First I dry fitted all the pieces to ensure proper fit.





My version of the 2 T is 12" deep instead of 16". The mid enclosure however is identical in size to the original. This leaves a much smaller opening between the back of the cab and the mid box which Jed recommended I stuff completely. The pieces fit nicely so onto gluing.





Cutouts for drivers on inner baffle were made following Jed's instructions on his site and all went well. I was a little too trigger happy with the brad nailer and ruined a couple of router bits when making the cutouts. Next time I'll be a little more careful about where I use the nailer. You can probably see the burns from the bit as it lost its edge. The unglued side was clamped temporarily for routing.



Next up was doing the baffles. I decided I would shorten up the length to 32" and paint them instead of using veneer. The rest of the cabinets will be cherry veneer with the baffles being a high gloss black. I'm going to attempt the Krylon method I've read a few people have used and had success with. I made up the baffles separate from the cabs and will glue them on only after the finish is done.







You can see here the relief of the back of the outer baffle for driver air flow.



Still lot's to do yet but I thought I'd post what I've done so far on Jed's site to get a little activity going in the forum. I hope to be able to post an update with pics every week or so from now on.


Last edited by ripcard on Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:23 am; edited 2 times in total

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Admin on Wed Nov 26, 2008 5:04 am

Hey, your build is looking great Rick. I've focused a lot of my time on the website and development of new kits. I hope to have more time to devote to uploading pics and threads on the forum. Keep the pics coming though!

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Admin on Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:44 pm

Rick,

I edited some of the pics so they are larger. Make sure you use the resizing tool in webshots instead of the thumbnails.

Keep the pics coming! Looking great.

Jed

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Doug on Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:08 pm

You have a nice shop setup there...I'm jealous!

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  ripcard on Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:28 pm

Thanks Doug. It's a basement workshop that I recently finished. A couple more pieces of equipment to get it fully kitted out but it's quite useable right now for this project.

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Clearwave on Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:46 am

ripcard wrote:Thanks Doug. It's a basement workshop that I recently finished. A couple more pieces of equipment to get it fully kitted out but it's quite useable right now for this project.

Wow, that's your basement? I'd be afraid to get those nice wood floors all dusty! Lookin good on the build Rick.

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  ripcard on Fri Dec 05, 2008 7:22 am

Looking at the pics again I guess I can see where you might be fooled into thinking I have beautiful wood floors in my basement. Maybe I should just leave it at that but in reality it is a laminate floor. It is a thick 12 mm version (most are 7 -9 mm) but just a click floor that I picked up for under 3 bucks a square foot. I paid more for the underlay. To me, it is great for a wood shop as it sweeps or vaccums easy and resists stains if you are quick to wipe up. It is great for a basement because the floor and the underlay make for a nice warm surface to walk on. More important, you can always find it on sale at the big home reno places for cheap, cheap.

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Doug on Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:19 am

Yes laminate is always nice and quite durable.

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  ripcard on Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:24 am

I finally found a little time to do some work and get a few pics up. The sonic barrier is all in, the voids behind the mid chambers are filled in and one speaker is wired.

Having one side panel off each speaker has generally been a PITA but in this case it made this work easy. When the side was clamped on for flush trimming I took a pencil and marked all around the inside of the enclosure braces walls backs etc. This gave me a reference for where to put the damping materials on the loose side panels. Had to pay attention to where the 1/2" and 3/4" sonic barrier meets but it was easy to make straight cuts with a drywall square and sharp knife.



The crossover just fits in the bottom of the speaker with 1/2" sonic barrier compressed all around to keep it snug. The hatch I will make on the lower back of the speakers will be done at the same time as the rear port. The veneer must be done first. But the sides have to be all glued up before that so... since it will be difficult to access the lower portion of the cabinets without driver holes (a function of the 2 T) doing the foam and wiring makes sense now. The binding posts will mount in the hatch cover.



The small area between the back and mid box was filled with expanding foam insulation. This stuff hardens to a very rigid foam and fills voids evenly. After it hardens you can trim the hardened over spill with a flush cut saw and clean the surface up with some sandpaper. It's lightweight and adds stiffness to the speaker.





Not sure if this is the correct amount of stuffing but I'm sure Jed can correct me if I'm off a bit. I triple checked my wiring so I'm confident there. I will probably meter it out just before closing them up. The hatch will allow access to the cross over (in case I ever need to) but it's easy to do one last check before the sides go on.

I'm just about ready to start finishing the baffles and will jump on that after I wire the other speaker. Hope to be able to move a little faster on this project in the next couple of weeks. I'm liking what I see so far.



Last edited by ripcard on Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:53 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Zero the Hero on Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:20 pm

Looks great so far!

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Clearwave on Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:03 am

Looks great! I lined the back wall of the mid chamber with about about 3-3.5" of fill. You can always listen and tweak as needed. Give the mids 20hrs to break in. They sound kinda dead at first and really start to liven up after even a few hrs as the suspension and surrounds get some play.

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new update for xmas

Post  ripcard on Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:16 am

Finished rough in wiring on the other speaker so no excuse to leave the sides off any longer. Glue up went well. I had no issues with the foam being already installed on the side panels as I was careful not to have any foam past my reference lines. Applied glue to both parts and got out all my clamps. Nowhere for glue drips on the inside to go and it was easy to get most on the outside with a damp cloth.




I also started work on finishing my baffles. I decided to use a 3/8" round over instead of my original idea of 1/2". The larger width of material at the edge of the baffle is more forgiving on slight variations in the centre distance of my driver openings. I'm not off by much (1/32" on one) but the smaller that edge is the bigger 1/32" looks. With a 1/2" roundover there would have been a very thin piece of MDF on the outside edge of each woofer. Probably would be too easy to break it off. I used wood glue to seal the roundover. Then it was 3 coats of primer sanding with 320 grit in between. The pics of the primered pieces is after sanding the second coat.



A black lacquer was next. I sprayed two coats then sanded with 320 grit using a little water to give a more even finish. I had to use the water sparingly because the back of the baffle and inside flanges are not sealed. I did not want to have any moisture get in to the raw MDF. Just damping the sandpaper in water worked like a charm to help cutting and prevent clogging. The pics are taken after the 3rd coat. Looks pretty good. Gloss black is hard to photograph and it is early in the process but I think it's going to work out. I plan on doing 3 more coats with maybe the last being clear lacquer.





Looking ahead, after finishing the baffles, is the roundover on the back side edges and beginning the veneer work so I can rout the port and hatch.


Last edited by ripcard on Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Clearwave on Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:00 pm

Looking great! You're a craftsman.

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  ripcard on Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:08 pm

Well, I've got some good progress to show today. Jed, I know you are anxious to hear my listening impressions and that time is coming, all be it slowly. Compared to some builds I've seen on the boards I'm definitly not in the upper end of the speed group but what I lack in timely progress I hope I make up for in quality. The winter weather slows me down a bit as well now, as I use my garage for spray painting the stinky laquer and when it goes lower than -5c my heater just can't keep up. The laquer needs a good warm environement to flow properly. So I wait for the days when it is not too cold, crank up the heat and do a couple of coats. I allow a couple of days for the laquer to harden well then sand and wait for the next window of mild temps to spray again. Slow, but the baffles are looking better with each successive step. I now have 5 coats of the black lacquer on top of the 3 coats of primer. One thing I would change for the next time would be to do the finishing before the driver cut outs. It would take a bit more paint but would be much easier to sand.

Since my last update I did the 1/2" roundovers, filled any uneven areas and holes and then sanded the cabinets. I chose to use a paper backed cherry veneer and Heat Lock glue. Before starting the veneer process I decided to seal them with a 50/50 glue and water mix to prevent having to use more of the Heat Lock veneer glue than I had to (first coat always soaks right in to MDF). A note to Canucks here: the Heat Lock glue is not available in Canada yet (as of a month ago when I ordered it) and while it was easy to order and came quickly it cost me a small fortune to get it here. Not having used it before I wanted to make sure I didn't need to buy more for a while. On a side note, I'm going to email a couple of woodworking supply companies around here to see if they are interested in carrying this product. Jed was right. It is a great product and a pleasure to use. No VOCs or smell at all so I could do the job in my shop downstairs. The ability to place the veneer exactly where you want it without the fear of it touching and staying in the wrong place like with conventional contact cement was also a huge benefit. It worked beautifully on my roundovers as well.

I started with the bottom of the cabinets first. I taped down the veneer pieces with masking tape to prevent glue getting on the front before rolling on the glue with a foam roller.




Next came the tricky part and where the Heat Lock glue really shines. Again, I taped down the veneer before rolling on the glue and also taped over the already veneered bottoms of the cabs. I placed the cabinets on their faces and rolled glue onto all three sides making sure the roundovers and edges were well coated. Once dry, I was able to handle the speakers with no issues. I like this Heat Lock glue. With the iron and the cotton Tshirt, I first did one side, rolled the speaker over did the first roundover and back, rolled it over again and did the second roundover and the second side. When doing the roundovers I noticed if you used a little too much pressure with the iron you would get a kind of facet sqare edged effect. Probably from the hot glue being squeezed elswhere around the curve but going back over it and rewarming using very light pressure put things back to right making a beautiful even roundover. I love this Heat Lock glue.






After waiting a few hours for the glue to cool and harden I checked all around the edges for any areas that might not be tightly glued down. There were just a couple and it was just a matter of reapplying heat with the iron and Tshirt and all was well. Did I mention I love this Heat Lock product? It was then time to flush trim and sand. I protected the already installed veneer with tape to prevent the flush trim bit bearing scratching it.



Here are a couple pics of the finished veneer. I'm very happy with the results. I still haven't decided on exactly what stain or even if I will stain them so I made up a small test panel of MDF and veneer to experiment with. I will sand down the veneer to baby bottom smooth and finish once that decision is made. After that, when I'm happy with the baffles, I will glue these on and install the drivers. Then the real fun begins!





Last edited by ripcard on Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:24 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Re: Mod 2 T build

Post  Clearwave on Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:46 am

Wow! Shocked Great looking cabinets!

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