Re: A new ultimate Duet10 is conceived using Accuton C90 mids!

[Zero the Hero]

man, she is a beaut!!! Nice work.

[Clearwave]

man, she is a beaut!!! Nice work.

Thanks Zero. This may be the most neutral speaker out there. Huge soundstage with just unbelievable detail retrieval. It's one of those speakers you can hear the acoustic space where the recording had taken place....

[diyITD]

Hi Jed,

This speaker looks to be something rather special. Can you confirm the price of these speakers in both a driver and crossover kit and the full kit excluding cabinets.

I am also interested in the feasibility of postage to Australia via sea and air.

In your estimation is it as good as tombstone or just a different speaker altogether.

What are the chances of seeing a pictorial diary depicting the build in more detail.

Thanks

Matt

[Clearwave]

Hi Matt,

The basic kit (crossovers and drivers) for the Duet10A is going to be $2995 with deluxe parts. All Clarity Caps in the signal path, Solen on the Zobel, Air core inductors and thick gauge inductors on the woofer circuit for low DCR.

If you need dampening materials, I used a few sheets of the Sonic Barrier and some Acousta Stuf-- about 4lbs.

Shipping to Australia is not a problem. I have a freight company that could help us out with that to save some money. They also have an air option that will likely be less expensive than USPS.

Shoot me an email if you want to discuss further options.

The original Tombstones are discontinued because I feel the other speakers I have in my lineup represent either a better value or better sound or both. The Duet10A is no exception.

Also, I can give you a step by step log for the build via email when a kit is purchased or we can do it here in a build thread. I just haven't had much time to upload all the pics and document it. This cabinet is not an easy one to build and it is different than the one pictured in the Duet10 build on my website. I made a few modifications to it because the midrange needed a larger enclosure for example. More info will be posted as I get things uploaded.

Regards,

Jed

[diyITD]

Hi Jed,

Thanks for the reply. My search (approx 2 years) for supreme DIY speakers may be coming to a close with a decision looming. Without the possibility of auditioning these speakers it is hard for me to appreciated their sound. I am therefore looking for as much information on them as possible before I decide they are the one for me and invest $2995. If they are as accurate as you say (I have no reason to doubt given the quality of the drivers and crossover) then they represent terrific value. I recognize you want to protect your intellectual property as I do in my business, I would like to see a plan of the cabinet to gauge its complexity and my ability to construct it (metric if possible ). I was a cabinet maker some years ago and still have a shed full of woodworking tools.

So if these bad boys are ridgydidge then I am definatley interested in exploring the possibilities in purchasing them.

Thanks for your time Jed,

Matt

ps I have looked at hundreds of audio websites and crikey yours is dinky di!

[Clearwave]

I'll get the plans up soon, when I get a chance to upload all the pictures and make any updates that came about after the build. Thank you for the compliments and hopefully we'll be able to work together on your ultimate speaker build kit.

Regards,

Jed

[Clearwave]

Click for a higher resolution image.


1. Laminate/glue the top section together. Cut and trim at 10.5 degrees to match the angle where the front baffle attaches. Cut the brace and bottom panels at the same degree where it meets the front.

2. When the laminated panels are dry, you can glue the vertical board that helps form the midrange enclosure in place. Measure to make sure the bottom of the midrange enclosure is long enough to reach the front panel at the intersecting point of the baffle.

3. Place one of the sides down which is still a rectangle that has the same height as the total enclosure and the same depth as the longest part of the base. When all the sides are glued up, etc. you can draw a line and use a straight edge to cut a clean 10.5 slanted side that connects to the angle created by the front edge of the top and bottom panels.



4. Glue the top, bracing, and bottoms into place. I used a nail gun to keep everything aligned so I could clamp. Glue the one side. Nail in place with all the internals lined up. It might help to draw some guide lines on the sides so nothing moves on you, and if it does you can make the change before the glue dries.



5. Rotate the cabinet and glue the other side in place. Note, I didn't cut the angle of the side yet.
6. I cut the front baffles and laminate 2 sections of 3/4" wood together to form a 1.5" thick front baffle. I then chamfer an opening for the midrange from behind. This is tricky to do because you have to do the measurements to make sure the circle on a 10.5 degree slope matches the distances from the top or bottom from the front. This ended up being about .25" added to the distance from behind the baffle if measuring from the top, so the hole would like up properly as marked in the drawing from the front.



7. Installed the Sonic Barrier in the cabinet. We used the 1 1/4 on the back walls of the woofer chamber, the entire mid chamber, and Acousta Stuf on the bottom of the woofer chamber, stuffed in the midrange chamber, and behind the midrange chamber. The crossover boards go on the bottom for the woofer, and behind the midrange chamber in that space.

8.) I used Gorilla glue to set the baffles. Use a variety of clamps so the baffle doesn't move on you. I used temporary blocks of wood wrapped with plastic stapled in place on the top and bottom so the baffle wouldn't slide when I clamped it. I used a brad gun so I could easily pull the small blocks of wood off after the baffle was settled in place.



9.) I used wood filler to cover all the end grain. If you don't you will get the end grain telegraphing through the veneer at the seams. Make sure you allow several days for the wood filler to dry. Otherwise when you apply wood glue on it for the veneer, it sometimes fulls away because any moisture in the wood filler is a problem for that.







10. The speaker is bottom ported and 2" spikes are used. The speaker is set up for biamping and it comes with 2 crossover boards. One for the tweeter/midrange, and one for the woofer section. I used the lower binding posts for the woofer crossover board.





11. The chamfer bit I used was about 1.1". I did the veneering for the speaker on the sides, top, back, and bottom before I cut the chamfer which tapers to .5" near the woofer. Then, I used wood extensions near the top to keep the router flush on the corners. Basically it made the router more stable. All I did was take a couple blocks of wood and clamped them near the top. Otherwise it would have been impossible to get a good corner without the router dipping. After it was all cut, I then veneered the chamfer while doing the sides first, and then the top of the chamfer last. Turned out really nice.



12. 5 coats of wipe on satin poly. I like satin because it shows the grain of the wood without any plastic looking film that you get with a gloss. The trick is to let the poly really dry fully before applying the next coat. You can sand lightly with a 400grit sandpaper to get it nice and smooth.

[diyITD]

It looks great Jed,

If I purchase a kit are those the plans to build the cabinets or do you provide more detailed ones?

Cheers

Matt

[Clearwave]

It looks great Jed,

If I purchase a kit are those the plans to build the cabinets or do you provide more detailed ones?

Cheers

Matt

I'm going to update the post above with step by step instructions and if you need more detail just let me know. Basically I'm here to answer any questions and help. The instructions can be as detailed as you like. For example I could make a list of all the cuts and how it was cut if you like. Whatever it takes to earn your business.

Regards,

Jed

[diyITD]

Hi Jed,

That sounds really helpful. I look forward to the update. I have been researching the drivers you have included in the Duet at various sites including diyaudio and HTC and they are certainly well regarded.

Just a couple of questions regarding the Duets, what thickness MDF should be used to build the cabinets? Would the cost to purchase the kit including the cabinets + shipping to Australia be astronomical and impractical? Do you have a frequency response graph? Is the Duet your flagship speaker? Is anything in the pipeline that will surpass these speakers in accuracy and SPL?

Thanks for being so helpful Jed,

Regards

Matt

[Clearwave]

That sounds really helpful. I look forward to the update. I have been researching the drivers you have included in the Duet at various sites including diyaudio and HTC and they are certainly well regarded.

These are among the best drivers I've tested and used.

Just a couple of questions regarding the Duets, what thickness MDF should be used to build the cabinets?

I used 3/4" MDF either laminated or dampened into 3/4"-1.5" thick. The panels can be thicker if you want as long as the width is the same and the internal volume is kept at the correct volume by adjusting the depth.

Would the cost to purchase the kit including the cabinets + shipping to Australia be astronomical and impractical?

I'd imagine shipping will be around $800 (with cabinets) via ocean freight + duties and taxes, but I can get an exact quote if you want. I'd honestly just find a cabinet maker locally if you don't want to DIY the cabinets.

Do you have a frequency response graph?

FR, imp, and harmonic distortion plots will be updated soon- this weekend. They are about +/ - 2dbs.

Is the Duet your flagship speaker?

I haven't build anything better than the Duet10 with the Accuton mids.

Is anything in the pipeline that will surpass these speakers in accuracy and SPL?

In terms of accuracy-- there's not much better. In terms of SPL-- the limiting factor here is usually the woofers xmax and output. The Duet10 will play at reference levels. However adding another 10" driver would give even more SPL.

Thanks for being so helpful Jed,

You're welcome and if you have more questions just let me know and I'll get to them as soon as possible.

[Clearwave]

[diyITD]

Now that looks FLAT!

Cant wait for the build Pics Jed (I am sure you are super busy).

I am hoping the cabinets are not to difficult cause I am definitely leaning towards making the investment

Cheers,

Matt

[Clearwave]

Now that looks FLAT!

Cant wait for the build Pics Jed (I am sure you are super busy).

I am hoping the cabinets are not to difficult cause I am definitely leaning towards making the investment

Cheers,

Matt

Hi Matt,

Just in case you didn't catch the updated post of the build, it's located at the top of this page. I've been updating the post periodically. I can add more steps to that post but unfortunately I don't have more pics than what I've recently updated. Let me know if there is something I can clarify further. I'd really like to earn your business.

Jed

[diyITD]

Hi Jed,

My mistake I hadn't realized you had updated these.

Matt