Re: Sal's Dynamic series 4T and 4CC

[Clearwave]

The lines you drew look correct to me. I took some pics of my CC in the main build, but please go by the schematic drawing. As you can see I crossed out a few of the lines that were drawn in the build. In the schematic drawing the woofer edge does end up a bit over the partition wall. That shouldn't be an issue at all because the cutout for the woofer is well within the range where the cutout will not go into the brace for the outer layer of the baffle. The inner layer requires you to not cut "perfect" circles. Stop the router before it goes into the brace area and then cut the rest with a jigsaw.

[Clearwave]

[aqus]

Hey Jed just to let you know I received your package today, but the Daytons never came in yet. Partsexpress said they hope to be here soon, but find it weird that the first box came last Monday and the other two are not here yet. Oh well just have to wait, just hope they are not lost...
Also I am doing the cutouts for the mids and tweeters. According to your measurements, if I leave an extra 1/16th of width to accommodate paint on the mids and tweeters,the tweeters will run over the mids on the CC. so instead of 2-3/8 from the top I will have to move the tweeter higher to approx 2-1/4 from the top. Might have to adjust the inner baffle hole. And I slightly lowered the mids. I guess moving it around a little won't make a difference in sound. The towers seem ok.

CC


towers

[Clearwave]

Looking good!

Fear not, if PE screwed up the shipment of the woofers, they'll make it good. PE shipped them in separate boxes (according to my invoice), so the box with the woofers might be caught up in customs. PE's method of shipping to international customers makes me a bit nervous without the availability of tracking numbers. Shoot me an email if you want me to call them again. Last time I called they assured me everything was sent.

Jed

[aqus]

so how about the measurement issue. What do you think? Is there a difference in sound in moving them around a little?

[Clearwave]

so how about the measurement issue. What do you think? Is there a difference in sound in moving them around a little?

There won't be an issue with that at all.

[aqus]

Hi Jed I am not there but figured I would ask now.
How are the mids wired(can't find it anywhere)? I think I saw somewhere they are wired in parallel? I think I also seen they are reversed polarity. By looking at the crossover file you sent me when you say mid + I connect to the positive terminal of the mids, that way they are reversed, since it is on the negative line.

I know the Daytons are shown in the build section which is a combination of parallel and series.

Dumb question: when connecting the mid+, woofer-, and in-, do they have to placed in the same place as diagram ex: mid + between C5 & C6, or can I just solder a 12guage wire anywhere on that line and then split it to mid+, woofer-, and in-?

Also when connecting to my amp should I use small or large speaker selection? i will be using a 15'' velodyne Sub with the system.
And at what hz should I cross them at? I know this is probably a matter of taste, but I am wondering what others have done. I guess the higher I cross them the less strain therefore clearer sound from the woofers.

[Clearwave]

How are the mids wired(can't find it anywhere)? I think I saw somewhere they are wired in parallel?

The mids are in parallel. Positive to positive connection on the terminals.


I think I also seen they are reversed polarity. By looking at the crossover file you sent me when you say mid + I connect to the positive terminal of the mids, that way they are reversed, since it is on the negative line.

Where the label says (Mid - ) you connect the (Mid - terminal ) to that spot etc.

I know the Daytons are shown in the build section which is a combination of parallel and series.

The quad woofers in the 4T and 4CC are wired in series parallel. There is a diagram in the build page on my website

Dumb question: when connecting the mid+, woofer-, and in-, do they have to placed in the same place as diagram ex: mid + between C5 & C6, or can I just solder a 12guage wire anywhere on that line and then split it to mid+, woofer-, and in-?

You can solder anywhere on the lead that is marked for the connection.

Also when connecting to my amp should I use small or large speaker selection? i will be using a 15'' velodyne Sub with the system.
And at what hz should I cross them at? I know this is probably a matter of taste, but I am wondering what others have done. I guess the higher I cross them the less strain therefore clearer sound from the woofers.[/quote]

Try it either way and see what sounds best. They can handle a lot of power and will have no problem on the large speaker selection

[aqus]

In the build it says that you use 1/2" sonic barrier on the top of the towers. Do you mean the top inside of the mid chamber, or the top of the woofer section right under the mid chamber.
The quantities seem scarce so don't want to put in wrong place.
I will be putting the crossover in the back of the CC mid chamber, it seems to fit. Do those crossovers generate any heat, since I will be filling the back part with poly fill?
BTW the crossovers are monsters, weighing in at 3.5lbs.
Need to go buy quick connects since I am using 12guage wire, the ones supplied are too small.
The silver solder has flux already in it, so I don't need to add more?
Hope you've been following my build in HTguide.might stop posting there doesn't seem to be getting much interest...

[Clearwave]

In the build it says that you use 1/2" sonic barrier on the top of the towers. Do you mean the top inside of the mid chamber, or the top of the woofer section right under the mid chamber.
The quantities seem scarce so don't want to put in wrong place.
I will be putting the crossover in the back of the CC mid chamber, it seems to fit. Do those crossovers generate any heat, since I will be filling the back part with poly fill?
BTW the crossovers are monsters, weighing in at 3.5lbs.
Need to go buy quick connects since I am using 12guage wire, the ones supplied are too small.
The silver solder has flux already in it, so I don't need to add more?
Hope you've been following my build in HTguide.might stop posting there doesn't seem to be getting much interest...

I used 1/2 for the first 3" around all the drivers and the area above the top woofer on the 4T and also around the woofers in the CC that are close to the sidewalls. Don't worry about cutting in the wrong place. You can peal it off and reuse the dampening material if you need to change it around a bit. There's enough dampening material to do the sides, top, and back. Crossover goes on the bottom. Put some poly over that.

The crossovers don't generate enough heat to cause any concerns.

12 gauge seems overkill. Be careful not to snap the terminals off the tweeters with that heavy wire.

The solder doesn't require flux. Just heat it up with an iron/solder gun.

You're build looks great over at htguide.com- however I'll answer questions here mostly. I don't want to use htguide.com as a customer service forum. That wouldn't be right, when I have it all set up right here.

Jed

[aqus]

Hi Jed. In the crossover diagram you sent me there is a R4 and under another resistor which is connected in series with R4 which isn't there. On R4 there is a wire not connected anywhere. Do I simply solder my mid- there???

[Clearwave]

Hi Jed. In the crossover diagram you sent me there is a R4 and under another resistor which is connected in series with R4 which isn't there. On R4 there is a wire not connected anywhere. Do I simply solder my mid- there???

For your board, instead of using 2 resistors in series to make the R4 value, I used one resistor. It's the same total value. You solder at the end of the single R4 resistor. If that doesn't make sense I can send you another diagram. To answer your question- yes, solder the mid negative to the resistor wire that is looped at the end, ready for your wire hookup to the mid.

Jed

[aqus]

makes sense, just wanted to make sure. Guess what I am doing today
Thanks

[Clearwave]

makes sense, just wanted to make sure. Guess what I am doing today
Thanks

Take your time with the wiring. There's a lot of woofers! If you have any way to test impedance, that's a good way to make sure everything is wired correctly.

I also recommend you use an amp that has some sort of protection circuit when you first fire them up so that if there is the unlikely event of a miswire somewhere, you don't blow up your Krell amp.

[aqus]

In the diagram for the center it says precision port is 5", but the shortest you can make it is 6"???
Also is there a trick to tighten does quick connects. Once installed they seem a little loose, not really snug.
BTW I went with 12ga for woofers and 14ga for tweeters and mids finally