Doug and Josh's 2T w/ Sub, 2CC, and D4 Build

[jjminch]

I figured it would be easier to start a build thread, rather than keep up the constant emails with Jed. We are doing a modified version of the 2T, it has a side firing 10" Dayton RF sub in it. The 2CC and Lineup D4 are left unchanged. I say "we" as I'm not doing any building. My dad is doing all the work, about 3,000 miles away from me right now.

[jjminch]

Hmmm, none of my attachments work. My internet connection is slow, I'll try again later. Jed can you post your tower design for us so other ppl reading can relate to the thread?

Also, my dad said you sent 100' of speaker gasket. I assume every driver should get a gasket than? Or is it just specific drivers, and if so, which ones?

ETA on the crossovers? He is starting with the D4s and 2CC first.

For the 2T, I had a question about the binding posts. It should be one 2X2 for each tower for the original 2T design correct? That way they can be bi-amped? In that case we would need an additional pair for the sub correct? A total of 3 pairs for each tower? My dad said he only received two sets of of two pairs.

That's it for now. I believe he starting cutting the center and surrounds today. More to follow later.

Josh

[Clearwave]

Hmmm, none of my attachments work. My internet connection is slow, I'll try again later. Jed can you post your tower design for us so other ppl reading can relate to the thread?

Also, my dad said you sent 100' of speaker gasket. I assume every driver should get a gasket than? Or is it just specific drivers, and if so, which ones?

ETA on the crossovers? He is starting with the D4s and 2CC first.

For the 2T, I had a question about the binding posts. It should be one 2X2 for each tower for the original 2T design correct? That way they can be bi-amped? In that case we would need an additional pair for the sub correct? A total of 3 pairs for each tower? My dad said he only received two sets of of two pairs.

That's it for now. I believe he starting cutting the center and surrounds today. More to follow later.

Josh

I've got the 2CC, 2T crossovers finished. Still working on the D4s. I should have everything to your dad by Friday (will ship on mon/tues). You lucked out and got the last pair of D26s from madisound.

You could use the terminal cups I sent you because they are for biamping. The lower terminals can go to your sub. The upper pair can go to the input for the crossover. So technically, what I sent you should work fine. If you want more binding posts/ or cups just let me know, though. You should have received a pair of single pair of binding posts for the D4, and 3 sets of dual binding posts for the CC and towers.

If you want to triamp the speakers, one amp for the subwoofer, one amp for the woofers, and one amp for the mid/tweeters, then you will need an extra pair of binding posts. Seems excessive, but if that is what you want I'll have to change the crossovers for biamping the woofers and mid/tweeter sections. As they are designed right now, the input is for a single amp to run the woofers/mids/tweeter.

To attach files you have to have access to something like webshots.com to upload your files on their server, and then link to it here.

I gave enough gasket tape to do all the drivers.

I think that about covers it.

Jed

[jjminch]

We will just keep the tower binding post as is. No need to redo them as I don't plan on Tri-amping. For the center, I can still connect that with a regular receiver correct? I don't plan on bi-amping that at the moment.

[Clearwave]

We will just keep the tower binding post as is. No need to redo them as I don't plan on Tri-amping. For the center, I can still connect that with a regular receiver correct? I don't plan on bi-amping that at the moment.

Yeah, what you can do is just keep the jumpers in place on the dual binding posts, and wire the top pair of posts to the inputs on the crossover board. I'll send you the wire schematic and connecting points for the crossover board when I send it out early this week.

Jed

[jjminch]

[img][/img]

Lets see if this webshots thing works. This was my dads idea for a proposed sub mount. Kind of like a cradle for it, never seen it done before.

Everything sounds good with the crossovers and binding post.

[Clearwave]

[img]

Lets see if this webshots thing works. This was my dads idea for a proposed sub mount. Kind of like a cradle for it, never seen it done before.

Everything sounds good with the crossovers and binding post.

It's working but you should use the 600 pixel size format instead of the thumbnail size.

I've never seen that done before either. To preserve the internal volume, I suggest a double thick sidewall.

[jjminch]

Thanks for the advice on the sub. My dad is building the center now, but he can't find the port tube. Can you send one with the crossovers?

EDIT: We are trying to inventory everything now, we should have everything except the port tube, D4 tweets and crossovers correct? Were the tower and center tweeters sent already?

[Clearwave]

Were the tower and center tweeters sent already?

Your last shipment will include:
3 XT25 double magnet tweeters
2 D26 tweeters
quick connects
1 flared port tube
crossovers for the 5 speakers

Most of the above came from another vendor or required my custom assembly, so that's why it's shipped in the final batch of parts for all your speakers. If you need anything else just let me know.

[Clearwave]

By the way, you might not want to port the CC, since you are going with dual subwoofers. What's the point?

[jjminch]

Thanks for the list of parts that we will be receiving. You're the speaker guru, I'll leave the "port or not port" question to you. We were just following your design and it called for one. The center is already cut and assembled. I wanted to place the rear of the speaker close (less than a foot) to the back wall on top of an entertainment center.

I assume to skip it than?

[Clearwave]

Thanks for the list of parts that we will be receiving. You're the speaker guru, I'll leave the "port or not port" question to you. We were just following your design and it called for one. The center is already cut and assembled. I wanted to place the rear of the speaker close (less than a foot) to the back wall on top of an entertainment center.

I assume to skip it than?

Yeah, I just assumed you were going to do the CC sealed because the modified towers/side firing subs are sealed. That way everything matches in the low frequencies. The F3 of the sealed RS180s is around 75-80hz, so you'll want all of them to roll off around that frequency to integrate properly with your sub LPed around 70-80hz.

Jed

[jjminch]

One of the drivers has red and blue on the terminals. Which one is positive and negative?

[Clearwave]

One of the drivers has red and blue on the terminals. Which one is positive and negative?

Which driver? Usually Red is positive. I'm pretty sure all the drivers are marked with a plus or minus sign as well.

[jjminch]

Some pics of the progress.